^75" 



XI KIX-J UXW Wf f >J -^ 



Conservation Resources 
Lig-Free® Type I 
Ph 8.5, Buffered 



V v\ ^^ V.jcr'--^.'v-^ '0»s^>3b. 



A CONVENIENT, PICTURESQUE -.^^ ^ 

AN D — 

Salubrious Winter Resort. 




New York Agent for Hotel, G. LEVE, 271 Broadway. 

CooKB & Cobb, Printers and Stationers, 10 Broadway, N. Y. 



TZMB TABLE 

Maii Steamship Lines 

OPERATED by' THE, 

QUEBEC & GULF PORTS S.S. CO., 

From NE,W YORK. ' ' 



The Company's Fleet comprises the following Steamers : 



BERMUDA - l,l60Tons 
BAHAMA - - l,O03 " 
FLAMBOROUCH 9,00 " 

SECRET, (side wheel) 



HAPJI l,060 Tons 

CANIMA - - 900 " 
ALHAMBRA 1,000 '' 

MI^IMICHI. (side wheel) 



Which are all British Built Iron Ocean btearnships, well 
Officered, and fitted in their Cabin arrangements for Tourist 
Travel. ' ' 

For BERMUDA Steamers leave New York every alternate 

Thursday, and during April; May and 
June, every Thursday. 

For VENEZUEL.A via^ Porto Rico, St. Thomas and Curacao, 

Steamers leave New York eVery Third 
Saturday. 

For ST. THOMAS, MARTINIQUE, BARBADOS, TRIN- 
IDAD and DEMERAR A, Steamers leave 

;. New York every Third Saturday. 

At St. THOMAS connection is made with the various lines 
running to Europe, and inter-colonially. 

JS^"- The attention of Shippers is called to the fact that 
Freight for Spanish Ports can he transferred at St, Thomas 
to Spanish Steamers at ^veri/ small cost. 

For full particulars, rates, etc., apply to ' 

WM. MOORE, Manager, 

QUEBEC. 

A. EMILIUS OUTERBRIDGE & CO., Agents, 29 Broadway, N. Y. 



'Ik. 



THE 

QUEBEC AND GULE POETS 

S. S. COMPANY. 



In addition to their line of Steamers to Bermuda, the Quebec and Gulf Ports 
S. S. Co. dispatch a Steamer every twenty-one days for Venezuela, calling at Porto 
Kico and St, Thomas, under a contract v?ith the Government of Venezuela. 

The Company has also inaugurated a line to the Windward West Indies, sailing 
every three weeks, extending to Demerara on the South American coast. 

Leaving New York by one of the Steamers of the Venezuela Route, the fertile 
Island of Porto Rico is reached on the seventh day. The steamer enters the port of 
St. Johns, passing close under the guns of the old Spanish forts, and remains in the 
harbor sufficiently long to enable the passengers to visit the city. The buildings and 
streets are not ornamental, but are picturesque, and remind one of the paintings and 
descriptions of ancient Eastern cities. The plaza is especially noticeable, being 
laid with marble tiles and surrounded by stately buildings and here on Sunday evenings 
may be seen the beauty and fashion of this Spanish city, promenading to the excellent 
music of the Governor's band. One side of the city is built on the edge of precipitoUg 
rocks, exposed immediately to the broad Atlantic, and without that protection from waves 
or wind which is usually obtained from off-lying reefs or overhanging trees. The 
singular " trade winds," always blowing off shore, appear to act as a barrier to Northern 
gales. 

The steamer leaves St. Johns in the evening and at daylight enters the pretty 
harbor of St. Thomas. Here again time is given to visit the shore, and this harbor 
being the rendezvous of all steamers trading from Europe and America and 
inter-colonial ports, it is the best mart in the West Indies in which to procure 
curiosities of shells and tropical plants. 

From St. Thomas the steamer continues her sea voyage for 48 hours to Laguayra, 
the seaport of the city of Caracas, the capital of Venezuela. Caracas is situated 
inland, 4 miles distant, on a table land 4,000 feet above the sea, and enjoys a mag- 
nificent climate and mountain views. It is impossible in describing the route of these 
steamers to detail the many attractions of this ancient and interesting city, and the 
reader is referred to one of the many books describing Caracas, to be found in our 
libraries. From Laguayra the steamer proceeds to Porto Cabello and Cnraeao, return- 
ing to Laguayra after three days, and thence to New York via St. Thomas and Porto 
Rico, the round trip occupying 31 days. 

Should the passenger take one of the Company's Steamers for Ihe Windward West 
Indies, the first place of call will be, on the seventh day, at St. Thomas, where the 
height and irregularity of the volcanic mountains are first noticeable. These moun- 
tains extend through all the cha'n of Islands as far ns the South American coast, and 



from St. Thomas the cruise is rendered most interesting by the constantly recurring 
mountain tops, which enables the traveler to keep land always in sight. Leaving St. 
Thomas in the evening, daylight of the following day finds the steamer oflF St. Pierre 
Martinique. Situated on a slope at the foot of highly cultivated though bold 
mountains, this city has many charms. Its streets are paved with Belgian blocks, and 
through every street a constant stream of the clearest water rushes down to the sea. 
The efi"ect of this is seen in the cleanliness of the city, and in the neatness of the 
natives. The natives, speaking only the French language, have also learned the 
politeness characteristic of their rulers. The hotel here is unequaled for its cuisine 
by any in the West Indies, and should not be passed by the visitor without at least a 
breakfast. From St. Pierre the steamer skirts along the coast, affording grand views 
of tropical verdure covering the hill and mountains. 

The next stop is at the British Island of Barbados. Here the population is very 
dense, and consequently the hills are cleared of trees and devoted to canes. There 
are very pretty drives through plantations close to the city, and there are numerous 
sugar mills nenr by, where the grinding and manufacture of sugar by the natives 
can be seen. 

But a few hours from Barbados the steamer again stops, now at the Island of 
Trinidad, having passed through the Dragon's Mouth, a passage half a mile long and 
but a few hundred yards wide, with walls of the richest tropical foliage 900 and 1,000 
feet high on either side. This Island is outside the usual range of hurricanes, and 
consequently here are found mammoth trees rivaling the noted ones of California 
and some surprising specimens of huge flowering trees. The visitor's attention will 
be attracted to the large number of black vultures, ugly but useful, which have 
been imported by the government to act as scavengers, work which they perform 
in every part of the city with unceasing vigilance. The time occupied in discharging 
freight at this port is from eight to twelve hours, when steam is made for Demerara. 

The distance to Demerara is about three hundred miles, and when fifty miles off 
the mouth of the Amazon river, there is a perceptible change in the color of the water, 
the immense quantity of mud washed out by that mighty river spreading itself over 
hundreds of square miles of sea. As the steamer approaches the entrance to George- 
town, which is on the Essequibo river, the muddy water thickens until at last in the 
river itself it has the appearance of chocolate. About twelve miles up the river are 
noted and beautiful falls and rapids, above which the water is clear and pure. 
A small river steamer runs to the rapids daily, and they are generally visited 
by tourists. The city is situated on: a level plain, which with thousands of acres 
behind it along the coast, appears to have been formed by deposits from the river. 
At no port in the Western hemisphere are there to be seen so many different types of 
the human race as at Demerara. Coolies and Chinese are employed in large numbers 
on the estates, while among the merchants and tradesmen almost every European 
nation has its representatives. The native Indians come in from the wild lands to 
trade, and tiger's teeth and other curiosities from the jungle may be bought at small 
•Cost. The steamer has now reached her final port on the outward journey, and in a 
few hours starts on the return voyage, calling at all the ports at which stoppages were 
made on the outward trip. The time occupied from New York to Demerara is 
generally 18 days, and on the entire round trip, 33 days. 



TO 



lifAIilSS All f OIEISf 

DESIRING TO SPEND THE WINTER 
IN A 



I take pleasure in announcing that I have completed negotiations for the 

Bermuda Islands, 

and that I will open the house under my personal management on November 
1st. Having had a long experience at the Grand Union Hotel, Saratoga, and 
also at the Eoyal Victoria Hotel, Nassau, N. P., my patrons may rest assured 
that they will find on this most beautiful island, with its salubrious climate,' 
a strictly first-class Hotel, which, in every department, will be as perfect as 
any of the best hotels to be found at either Summer or Winter Resorts. 

The Hamilton Hotel has been constructed by the Corporation of the City, 
after which it is named, and is built entirely of stone ; its architecture is that 
of a modern Hotel, all the rooms being large, high, and well ventilated, with 
beautiful Parlor, Dining-room, Offices and Billiard-room, hot and cold, fresh and 
salt water baths, and all other modern conveniences. The house is situated on 
a rising slope overlooking the City, Harbor, Sea and adjacent country, and is 
surrounded by beautiful grounds ; the view obtained from its balcony is most 
picturesque, overlooking, as it does, a magnificent landscape. 

The table will be supplied with the best afforded by New York and 
Bermuda markets. 

For amusements no other Winter Resorts can offer such attractions as does 
Bermuda. There are over a hundred miles of the best of carriage-roads, with 
most charming scenery of ever changing variety. Boating, yachtmg and fishing 
can be indulged in to heart's content in[ the innumerable number of Bays and 
Inlets, with water as transparent as glass. 



Social life in Bermuda, out or indoors, can not be equalled at any other 
Winter colony; it is a perfect continuation of concerts, parties, balls, theatricals, 
etc. Bermuda being the largest British Military and Naval Station next to 
Malta, has a garrison of 3,000 troops, and is the Winter headquarters for 
the North Atlantic Squadron — the majestic fleet enlivening the harbor. 

The Admiral makes his headquarters for the Winter at his beautiful 
residence near Hamilton. 

Bermuda has the advantage of regular and rapid communication to and 
from New York. The well-known Clyde built steamship Canima, having ex- 
cellent cabin accommodation, makes semi-monthly trips, leaving New York every 
alternate Thursday, making the journey from port to port in 70 hours ; and 
there is also a monthly line from Bermuda to St. Thomas, enabling those 
desirous of extending their tour, to reach the West India Islands, Venezuela, etc., 
returning thence to New York. 

The climate of Bermuda is so well known/and the Island enjoys sucJi an 
excellent reputation as a sanitarium that it requires little to be Said on 
this subject, but the record of temperature kept by H. M. Governnient Officers 
and appended below, shows an even and enjoyable temperature of the air in 
shade. 

AYEI^AGE OF 17 YEAI^S, 



9 A.M. 

January, 63°.6 . 

February, 63. 7 . 

March, 63.7 . 

April, 67.3 . 

May 71.7 . 

June, 77.1 . 



3 p.m. 


Aver, of 
84 hours 


.650.3 


. ...63°.4 


. 64.9 


. ... 63.0 


. 65.5 


.... 63.4 


. 68.5 


. ... 66.5 


. 73.2 


. ... 70.4 


. 78.6 


. ... 76.0 



9 a.m. 

July, 810.1 

August, 82.3 . 

September, 80.2 , 

October, 75.3 . 

November, 69.6 , 

December, 65. 2 



3 P.M. 


Aver, of 
24 hours. 


82°. 6 


....80°.O 


83.8 


. ... 81.7 


81.6 


.... 79.8 


76.3 


. ... 73.7 


70.3 


.... 68.0 


66.2 


.... 64.5 



In conclusion I beg to refer to the following pages of this pamphlet for 
further information regarding Bermuda, and should such induce the reader to 
visit the Island nothing will be left wanting, at least in hotel accomodations, 
to make his stay, long or short, pleasant and agreeable. 



kt 



KespectfuUy, 



^ w 



Proprietor. 



TERMS : $2.50 to $3.00 Per Day, United States 
Currency or Gold. 



V'f^'^-'^ 



-s--*^ 



.C>N 



N4 sM: 



.H-^H 



BERMUDA. ^ <^ 




INDIA RUBBEB TBBE. 



~Y YINGr about seven hundred miles south- 
I J east of New York is a group of islands 
Tvhose climate, soil, and picturesque scen- 
ery render them especially interesting to 
us, and yet they are strangely unfamiliar to 
most well-informed Americans. Speaking 
our own language, having the same origin, 
"vvith manners which in many ways illustrate 
those prevalent in New England seventy- 
iive years ago, the people are bound to us 
Toy many natural ties. A Mexican revolu- 
tion, a Cuban revolt, a Spanish-Cuban out- 
Tage, the proposed annexation of San Do- 
mingo, have led us to inqiiire into the 
history and resources of those regions. But 
life in Bermuda has been as placid as its 
lovely waters on a summer day, with now 
and then a petty agitation which has not 
been sufficiently important to attract the 
attention of the outside world, from which 
it is so absolutely isolated. 

"'A'^ithin three days' travel from New York 
it is hardly possible to find so complete a 
•change in government, climate, scenery, and 
vegetation as Bermuda offers. The voyage 
may or may not be pleasant, but is sure to 
"be short. The Gulf Stream, which one is 
-obliged to cross, has on many natures a sub- 
duing effect, and the sight of land is not 
generally unwelcome. The delight is in- 



tensified by the beauties which are spread 
out on every hand. The wonderful trans- 
parency of the water, the numerous islands, 
making new pictures at every turn, the shift- 
ing lights on the hills, the flowers, which 
almost hide houses that peep out here and 
there from their bowers, make up a scene as 
rare as it is beautiful. And so, making our 
way slowly through the labyrinth of islands, 
a sudden turn brings us into the pretty 
harbor of Hamilton, which is the capital 
and principal town of Bermuda. 

The arrival of the steamer has been her- 
alded by the customary signal — a flag from 
the Government House. The news has been 
telegraphed all over the island, and the 
crowd of people on the wharf indicates the 
interest which attaches to our advent. The 
majority of those standing there are colored, 
with a sprinkling of men well-to-do and. 
English in appearance, while the presence 
of the British soldier suggests the fact that 
this is one of England's military stations. 

We are anchored just opposite Front 
Street, which, we learn, is the principal 
business street of the town. A long shed- 
like structure stretches along the wharf, af- 
fording a comfortable shelter for men, boys, 
and barrels. The pride-of-India trees, offer- 
ing agreeable shade, border one side of the 



3\ 



BEEMUDA. 



f \^ ^<A^ 




street, while stores, unpretending in appear- 
ance, extend along the other. From the na- 
ture of the soil, the streets are almost white, 
imparting an unpleasant glare, and, on the 
whole, the first glimpse of the town is not 
very ]3repossessing. As we land, no hack- 
man vociferates. No man, of any calling, 
vociferates in this latitude. If we desire 
a carriage, we send for it; otherwise we 
walk. The town boasts of some three or 
four hotels, to the best of which, the Ham- 
ilton, we make our way. It is situated on a 
high hill, commanding a view of most of 
the town. Doors and windows are flung 
wide open. The floors, save the parlor and 
sitting-room, are white and uncarpeted ; the 
rooms are simply but comfortably furnished, 
and, what is better still, tolerably large, aii-y, 
and well ventilated. Long verandas stretch 
across the front, from which one obtains 
delightful views of the harbor and the hills 
beyond, clothed with cedar and dotted with 
houses. Flowers bloom in front of the 
house, and the oleander, red, pink, and 
white, lines the path leading up the hill, 
shading off into the dark green of the ce- 
dars below. The air, free from impurities 



and laden with the perfumes of the flowers, 
is delicious: it is a joy to breathe. 

The houses are rarely more than two sto- 
ries in height, often, or usually, only one. 
They are almost invariably built entirely 
of the Bermuda stone — walls, roofs, and 
chimneys. The stone is of a creamy white 
color, and so porous that it seems as if it 
would crumble in a day. Indeed, it is so 
soft that it is generally sawed out with a 
common hand-saw. The tiles, which are 
about two feet long, one foot wide, a^jdfrom 
six to eight inches thick, are left for a short 
time to harden in the sun. 

The walls and roofs of all houses are plas- 
tered, and this fact, taken in connection 
with the entire freedom from frost, explains 
their durability, many of which are in a 
good state of preservation after standing for 
a hundred and fifty years. They are usually 
white, with green Venetian blinds, admit- 
ting light and air from beneath. Nearly all 
have pretty verandas and pleasant grounds 
surrounding them. Judging from the ex- 
terior, one would conclude that they would 
be entirely inadequate to the demands of 
any ordinary family, but closer acquaintance 
demonstrates the fact that a house may be 
built out as well as up, and what seemed 
very diminutive proves to be very com- 
modious and pretty, though they are usually 
destitute of any thing which we term 
"modern improvements." Kitchens and 
servants' rooms are generally detached from 
the main house. 

The government buildings in Hamilton 
are plain two-story structures, in one of 
which is the Bermuda Library, originated 
by Governor Eeid, and at present sustained 
by occasional grants from the Assembly and 
by subscriptions. It contains some twelve 




2'//2Y3 reo,Ul 



BEEMUDA. 




TUIMJi CUUliOU. 



hundred works, well selected, and what is 
quite as much to the purpose, well read. 
The small, number of illustrated books 
which the library possesses, together with 
those written by the Queen, or due to he;- 
IDatronage, are the pride of the librarian, a 
retired sea-captain, who exhibits her 
Majesty's aiitograph with delight, descant- 
ing all the while on the kindness which 
has prompted her gifts. 

The most iDretentious building in Hamil- 
ton, or, indeed, in Bermuda, is Trinity 
Church, which was some twenty-five years 
in building, owing, however, rather to the 
stupidity than the skill of its builders. It 
stands on a hill overlooking the town, be- 
longs, of course, to the Episcoiaalians, is 
really quite pretty, and far superior to any 
thing of its kind which one usually finds in 
so small a place. 

■" Along the so\ith shore are sand-hills Avhich 
illustrate the formation of Bermuda. In 
one instance a cottage has been submerged, 
trees to the height of several feet, and the 
sand has even traveled up a hill one hun- 
dred and eighty feet high. Nine miles 
north of the islands are four needle rocks, 
apparently the remnants of former islands. 
They are about ten feet above high-water 
mark, and A^ary from four to eight feet in 
diameter. They are" of limestone, and are 
stratified like the main-land. 

There are about one hundred and fifty 
miles of good hard roads, which are gener- 
ally free from dust. In many j)laces deep 
cuttings have been made, and the rock 
towers above the carriage even. The scen- 
ery is exceedingly picturesque, and changes 
continually. Now you drive through wide 
stretches of country, and the landscape 
bears a striking resemblance to that of New 



England; then 
through a narrow 
road, with high walls 
of rock on either 
hand, on the sides 
of which the maid- 
en-hair fern grows 
in profusion, and 
the road is so wind- 
ing that every new 
view which bursts 
suddenly upon you 
is a surprise; and 
then there are de- 
lightful glimpses of 
the sea, witL" its 
many islands. Walls 
of stone extend 
along the road-side, 
and over them clam- 
ber the morning- 
gloiy the iDiickly jjear, and the night-bloom- 
ing ceieus Great beds of geraniums, which 
mock our hot-houses in their profusion, 
glow -ttild Hedges of oleander line the 
loads 01 bolder cultivated i^atches of land, 
jDiotectmg them from the high winds which 
at times sweep over the islands. Thirteen 
\aiieties of it are found here, and wherever 
■sou go it IS one mass of pink and white 
blossoms The Ian tana also grows. wild along 
the hedges. The passion-flower peeps out 
from its covert of green leaves, creeping up^ 
the branches of tall trees. The profusion 
of flowers is wonderful, ana one can always, 
have a bouquet for the gathering. The win- 
ter is the regal time for them. About Christ- 
mas, the roses, magnificent in size, and of 
great variety, are in all their glory. One 
gentleman assured me that he had upward 
of one hundred and fifty varieties. No great 
care seems to be taken to cultivate them. 
Here and there one sees a fine garden, but 
nothing that even approaches what might 
be accomplished Avith such a soil and 
climate. 

The beauty and variety of flowers are 
fully equalled by the excellence and diver- 
sity of fruits. Oranges of superior quality 
are raised, though their culture is not gen- 
eral. The lemon groAvs wild. The mango, 
guava, papaAv, pomegranate, fig, arocada 
pear— whose lovers (for they can be called 
nothing else) become eloquent in its praise^ 
— the custard apple, the banana — the lazy 
man's delight, bearing its Avealth of fruit,, 
and dj'ing as it yields its single bunch, 
while the ncAv plants springing up about 
its dead stalk maintain the supply the year 
round — all these fruits grow readily, and 
Avith due eff"ort Avould grow abundantly. 
Apples and pears are raised, but lack the 
flavor they possess -with us. Peaches, here- 
tofore excellent, have been destroyed for 
tAvo years past by an insect. Strawberries 
ripen from November till July. Grapes- 
grow luxuriantly. 

The most common tree is the Bermudian_ 
cedar, with Avhich nearly all the hill-sides, 
are Avooded. Occasionally one sees the 
mountain palm, Avhile tamarind, tamarisk, 
palmetto, cocoa-nut, India rubber, ma- 
hogany, and calabash trees are quite com- 



BERMUDA. 



mon. In gardens many West 
Indian trees are found. • 

Although three crojis of vegeta- 
"bles can be raised annually, still 
agricutlure is in a very backward 
state, and most of the fruits enu- 
merated are specially rather than 
generally cultivated. In the early 
colonial days it was the chief 
occupation of the people, but was 
afterward abandoned for other 
piirsuits, and after the introduc- 
tion of slavery the land was mostly 
tilled by slaves, and a certain 
disgrace attached to this kind of 
labor. Ignorance reigned in the 
fields, and it is only recently that 
an attempt has been made to 
wrest them from its sway. The 
most progressive men are now 
deeply interested in the subject, 
and strong efforts are being made 
to induce the jDeople to cultivate 
something besides the stereotyped 
onion, potato, tomato, and arrow- 
root, the last said to be the best 
in the world, though the qiiantity 
raised is constantly dimiuishing, 
as it exhausts the soil, and does 
not prove as remunerative as some 
other crops. 

Small patches of land are se- 
lected here and there, are carefully 
spaded — the plow not being in 
common use — and from them the 
suz'prisingly large crops are real- 
ized. The land is quite generally 
inclosed by the oleander, and to 
prevent inroads ujion it all crea- 
tures that feed out-of-doors, from 
a, hen to a cow, are usually tied. 
The poor things have that resigned 
look peculiar to individuals linked 
to any thing from which they are 
too weak or too stujiid to escape. 

One great drawback to the colo- 
ny has been the lack of regular 
steam communication with New 
York. The government now pays 
a subsidy to the Quebec & Gulf 
P. S. S. Co., who run excellent 
steamers fortnightly, and in the 
great crop season, during the 
months of April, May, and June, 
weekly trips are made. The value 
of exports last year, 1878, has 
iDeen aboiit $350,000, or an in- 
crease of $50,000 over that for the 
year 1877. The ready market 
which is secured by steam com- 
mvmication, the introduction of 
improved farming utensils, the 
increased demand which will be 
made for products which the 
country can so easily supply, will 
make of Bermuda ere long that 
for which she is so well fitted — 
the garden of New York. 

In traveling through Bermuda, 
one's thoughts continually revert 
to Spain. The name of old 
Juan Bermudez, its discoverer 




BERMUDA. 




I5TEEKT IN HAMILTON — THE WHABF. 



Has been bestowed upon the islands, and it 
•would seem as if his spirit still floats over 
them, so thoroughly Spanish are the out- 
•ward characteristics; and in no place is this 
more marked than in the quaint old town of 
St. George's. The harbor is beautiful, and 
much more accessible than that of Hamilton. 
'The streets are narrow — mere lanes, in fact 
— across which you can shake hands with 
your neighbor if so disposed, and they are, 
moreover, sandy and disagreeable for pedes- 
trians. Houses are huddled together in the 
most miscellaneous manner, and from one 
perfumed with the onion, with its unkempt 
.and uninteresting-looking occupants burst- 
ing out at doors and windows, you come pat 
■upon a beautiful garden, with its pretty 
Bermudian cottage, only to find repetitions 
■of the experience throughout the town. On 
its most commanding height are fortifica- 
tions, and the work now in progress is said 
to be particularly fine. There are barracks 
all over the hill, and soldiers sitting or loaf- 
ing about wherever you go. During the 
war St. George's was a busy town, being a 
■great resort for blockade runners, which 
were hospitably welcomed by our English 
friends. Goods purchased abroad were 
brought here, and then transferred to the 
craft waiting to receive them. Is was risky 
business, but one well followed, and many 
men here who flattered themselves at the 
"beginning of the war that they were amass- 
ing large fortunes were bankrupt or nearly 
so at its close. Some few, however, realized 
large amoiints. The town was crowded, and 
•at night every available space out-of-doors 
«or in was occupied. Men lay on verand s, 



walls, docks and floors. Money was plenty, 
and sailors sometimes landed with $1,500 in 
specie. The price of labor advanced; wages 
were doubled. 

From St. George's to Hamilton there is a 
fine ocean drive of eight or nine miles. Go- 
ing by Harrington Sound, you will jDass the 
Devil's Hole, or Neptune's Grotto, between 
which and the sound there is a subterranean 
communication — the sound, by-the-way, be- 
ing an arm of the sea. Fish caught at the 
most favorable seasons of the year are kept 
here until wanted for use. The usual num- 
ber is 1,000, though it will hold 'twice as 
many. There are many varieties of fish, 
and the spectacle is as pleasing as it is novel. 
These ponds, on a small scale, are quite 
numerous throughout Bermuda. 

Like most limestone countries, Bermuda 
abounds in caves, and nowhere are they 
more beautiful than in Walsingham, not far 
from Neptune's Grotto, on the road leading 
around Harrington Sound, one of the love- 
liest sheets of water imaginable. The whole 
region is singularly attractive. Mimic lakes, 
reflecting the varied hues of the rocks which 
inclose them, with trees overhanging their 
banks, teem with fish wonderful in variety 
and color, whose motions are the very ideal 
of grace. By-paths through the tangled 
wild-wood lead one through a wilderness of 
beauty. Nature has been lavish of her gifts 
all through this locality, and as it is geo- 
logically one of the oldest sections of Ber- 
muda, all the rocks seem to have the weather 
stain which the vines love so well. Over the 
whole is thrown the charm of poetry, from 
the fact that it was one of Tom Moore's fa- 



BEEMUDA. 



vorite liaunts wliile living in Bermuda. It 
is fitting that Nature should have her tem- 
ples in such a place. Humility is one of the 
conditions of entrance to them, and so bend- 
ing lovi^, making a slight descent, we are 
soon standing in a room from whose arched 
roof hang lar^e stalactites. Artificial lights 
bring out each in its full pro]portions, and 
one contemplates with wonder this strange 
architecture, regardless of the ages it has 
endured. In a second one near hj, and 
which is much more spacious, is a beautiful 
sheet of water, clear as crystal, and of an 
emerald tint. The finest cave is the Admi- 
ral's, which guides maj'fail to mention from 
the fact that it is more difficult of access 
than any of the others; but to one at all ac- 
customed to climbing there is little danger 
and no great difficulty in visiting any of 
them. 

Back to the enchanted ground we lunch 
tinder "Moore's calabash tree, "'hacked by 
specimen htinters, but beautiful still. Here 
he sat and wrote, and so acquired the divine 
right to all this place. Of course there is a 
love story, and the characters in it are this 
same poet and the handsomest lady in all 
the Bermudas at that time. Miss Fanny 
Tucker, sometimes iDrettily called the "Eose 
of the Isles," whom Moore in his poems ad- 
dresses as "Nea." Well, he wrote verses to 
her, and about her, and went on in true 
lover-like style; but she seems not to have 
been moved by his strains, and liked her 
own name so well that she did not change it 
on her marriage. Moore lived to love again, 
as we all know. In fact, all the people in 
this little story are said to have lived 
happily ever after. 

One of the most 
delightful places in 
Bermuda to visit is 
Clarence Hill, the 
residence of the Ad- 
miral, who is sup- 
posed to live there 
three months each 
year. The road from 
Hamilton is a wild 
one, and full of va- 
rietur, with most 
charming combina- 
tions of the Avoods, 
country, and sea. 
We pass Undercliff 
Cottage, designed for 
happy lovers, who 
can here spend their 
honey-moon in a re- 
treat so secure that 
there will be no de- 
mand for the farce of 
Old Married People, 
always a failure when 
enacted by amateiirs. 
There are flowers in 
abundance, wLich 
with the air and 
views will sustain 
life for a month or 
so. A pretty veran- 
da overlooks the 
water, with its 



"Summer isles of Eden lying in dark purple 
spheres of sea." 

Steps lead almost from the door down to 
the boat, which will bear them out into all 
the loveliness which is ever beckoning tO' 
them. For absokite beauty I know of but 
one other view in Bermuda comparable with, 
this — that from the summit of St. David's; 
Island. The atmospheric effects are mar- 
velous, and lead one to consider matrimony 
very favorably, so closely are the place and 
the condition connected. 

The grounds at Clarence Hill are quite 
extensive and well kept. The house is plain,, 
but the attractiveness of the place is in its- 
marine views, and in the fact that nature 
has been left in. On a hill-side overlook- 
ing the sea, in a most sequestered sjDot, is an 
exquisite bit of gardening. Mosses, ferns, 
and many tropical plants grow in such pro- 
fusion and grace, peeping from under rocks, 
climbing over them, that it is only bj^ criti- 
cal inspection that jon perceive that their 
presence is due to cultivation. Near by is a 
cave, against whose outer wall the sea is 
ever dashing. It was tunneled by a former 
Admiral, and is so large that on its comple- 
tion a ball was given in it by way "of cele^ 
bration. 

Some pleasant morning a visit must be 
made to Ireland Island, the site of the dock- 
yard and naval establishment, and one of 
the four telegraphic signal stations. We 
land, and encounter at once the British sen- 
tinel, who is very courteous,' and splutters in 
the most unintelligible English, using words 
on general principles, more as a relief to 
himself than as an assistance to any one else. 




MOOSE'S OALAUAaU-T&SB. 



BEKMUDA 




THR FLOATING-DOOK, 



Not being in any sense dangerous to Great 
Britain, we are allowed to proceed. There 
are marines every where, and with few ex- 
ceptions they seem to be a most agreeable 
set of fellows. The most remarkable object 
of interest is undoubtedly the floating-dock, 
one of the largest structures of its kind in 
the world, which was built in England, and 
was towed across the Atlantic to its present 
position by five ships. Its length is three 
hundred and eighty-one feet, a'nd its breadth 
one hundred and twenty-four feet.- The 
largest and heaviest man-of-war can be 
docked. It is divided into forty-eight water- 
tight compartments, which are fitted with 
valves worked from the tipper deck. By 
placing some four thousand tons of water in 
the ufjper chambers, its keel can be brought 
fiA'e feet out of water and cleaned — a process 
which it has once undergone. You ascend 
a ladder or steps on the outside, and get 
a fine view, having yoiir head nearly blown 
off while doing it. People whose heads are 
of no consequence invariably ascend, while 
the more severely intellectual remain at the 
foot of the ladder. There is the usual num- 
ber of machine-shops, offices, and magazines, 
with vast quantities of powder — much more 
than a quiet little place like Bermuda would 
seem to require. Places have been tunneled 



out here and there, and filled with munitions 
of war. Every thing is arranged in the most 
deliberate and scientific manner to injure 
the feelings of other peo^^le. There is no 
suggestion of peace or its congr^■sses, unless 
the maiden-hair fern which grows on the 
rocks wherever there is safiicient moisture- 
may be considered one. Among so many 
suggestions of disaster and death the hos-- 
pital and cemetery are harmonious accom-- 
paniments. The former is commodious and. 
well managed. The latter has more inmates, 
and is a pleasant place to go to when one 
can not go elsewhere, and is rendered at-- 
tractive by flowers and trees — a fact deserv-- 
ing mention, since most cemeteries here are- 
the lonesomest kind of places, though they 
are not particularly gay in any country. 

If the moon, tide, and party are just, 
right. Fairy Land ])resents as great a con-- 
trast to Ireland Island as can well be imag- 
ined. Five or six hours are needed for the 
expedition. You row into little coves, then, 
into what seem to be lakes, so perfectly in- 
closed is the water; hard by the shore, look- 
ing up through dells in which you can. 
almost see the fairies dancing under the 
trees; under great rocks which threaten to» 
send you down among the fishes; around. 
islands, into inlets, where the mangroves,'. 



BERMUDA. 



•every 
throw 



leaf glistening in the moonlight, 
out their branches in the most wel- 
coming way. All this, and much more, is 
in store for him who goes to Fairy Land, 
the enchanted spot of Bermuda. 

Some slight consideration of the political 
and social condition of Bermuda may not be 
uninteresting. As if to protect them from 
invasion, coral reefs, extending some ten 
miles into the sea, threatened with disaster, 
if not destruction, the "Ancient Mariner," 
who, with imperfect knowledge and rude 
craft, attempted to find his way into some 
;safe harbor. And many a ship in days gone 
by has been wrecked on these shores, leav- 
ing few or none to tell the tale. In fact, the 
colony owes its origin to a disaster. In 1609 
a fleet sent out with reinforcements for the 
Virginia colony was separated by a storm, 
and the ship bearing Sir Thomas Gates and 
.Sir Greorge Somers was wrecked o& the Ber- 
mudas. After enduring incredible hardships 
for three days, land was "most wishedly 
and happily descried" by Sir George Somers, 
and not long after there came a calm, so that 
ihey unshipped their stores, with "all con- 
veniency and ease, " into boats, and reached 
land ' ' in safetie, without the loss of a single 
man." This place, which had become a ter- 
ror to seamen, so that they had named it 
"The Isle of Devils," Sir George Somers 
and party found "the richest, healthfulest, 
and pleasantest" they ever saw. After con- 
structing two ships they embarked for Vir- 
ginia, leaving two men on the island. They 
found their countrymen in a most pitiable 
condition on their arrival. Supplies were 
much needed, and Sir George Somers, 
"whose noble minde ever regarded the gen- 



erall good more than his own ends," oifered 
to undertake the voyage to the Bermudas 
for their relief. But "the strength of his 
body not answering to the memorable 
courage of his minde," he died shortly 
after his arrival at St. George's, named in 
honor of him. 

Such flattering reports were made of the 
islands that the Virginia Company procured 
an extension of their charter, which included 
Bermuda. Soon after one hundred and twen- 
ty gentlemen purchased their right, and all 
profits arising from the culture of the soil 
were to be divided among the proprietors 
and their tenants, who were little superior 
to serfs. 

The proprietary form of government con- 
tinued until 1685, with a long procession of 
good, bad, and indifferent governors. The 
early history of Bermuda is in many impor- 
tant points similar to that of New England. 
Like motives had in most instances induced 
emigration, and the distinguished character- 
istics of those people were repeated here. 
Like the Salem colonists, they had their 
witchcraft delusion, anticipating that, how- 
ever, some twenty years. Christian North 
was tried for it in 1668, but was acqtiitted. 
Somewhat later a negro woman, Sarah Bas- 
set, was burned in Paget for the same of- 
fense, though the more probable cause was 
murder. The following curious account was 
found recently in some old records at St. 
George's: 

" In 1651, at St George's, one Jeane Gardiner, 
the wife of Ealph Gardiner, was presented for 
trial, because the said Jeane, on or about the 
11th day of April I, 1651, feloniously, dehberate- 
ly, and maliciously dide saye that she would 
crampe Tomassiu, a mulatto woman, and used 




CAVES O.N TIIK COAST. 



BERMUDA. 







COTTAGE AND GARWETJ IN BEEMTTPA. 



many other threatening words tending to the 
hurt of the same Mulatto woman ; and within a 
while after, by practice and combination with 
the devill, feloniously dide practice on the said 
mulatto the diabolical craft of witchcraft, in- 
soemuch that the said mulatto was very much 
tormented, and struck blind and dumb, for the 
space of two houres : and at divers tymes and 
other places dide practice the said devillish 
craft of witchcraft on severall persons, to the 
hurt and damage of their bodyes and goods. 
To which Indictment the said Jeane Gardiner 
pleaded not guilty; but the jury of twelve 
sworn men found her guilty, and pronounced 
the sentence of death, and she was accordingly 
executed on the 26th day of May at St. George's. 
The Governor and Counsell was very carefull in 
flndinge out the truth, and caused a jury of 
women to search, her They returned as fol- 
loweth : ' Havinge made diligent search, accord- 
ing to our oathes, we can not find any outwards 
or inwards marks, soe far as we can perceive, 
whei-eby we c^n in conscience finde her guilty, 
only that in her mouth there is a blue spott, 
which being pricks did not bleed, and the place 
was insensible, but being pricks close by It, it. 
bled— the which we leave to the judgment of 
Phiseeans.' Mr. Hooper and the Chirurgeons 
beinu- appointed to view that spott the day that 
she was to come to her. trial . it was fallen away 
and flatt, and being pricks, it b'ed, and it was 
known to be there eighteen years. And for 
further Iriall she was thrown into the sea. She 
did swyme like a cork, and could not smke. 



Tnese signs and otner strange evidences in 
court condemn her. yet nevertheless she would 
confess nothing att her death. She was de- 
manded :n court if she could give a reason why 
she dide not sinke. She answered, she dide 
open her mouth and breathe, but could not 
sinke." 

Quakers suffered with tlie witches just as 
with us. Fines, imprisonments, whippings, 
tortures, and the death penalty were the 
popular methods of exterminating heresy 
and glorifying God. 

Agriculture was at first the leading pur- 
suit, but Avas gradually abandoned for ship- 
building, the manufacture of salt at Turk's. 
Island, and the carrying trade. So generally 
were these pursuits followed, and so depend- 
ent upon America had Bermuda become,, 
that at the breaking out of the American 
Revolution she actually suffered for supplies. 
Bound by ties of relationship and business 
interests to the colonies, their sympathies 
were warmly enlisted in their behalf, and 
the harsh measures of tlie home government 
served to alienate them still more from the 
mother coimtry. This feeling was warmly 
manifes ed about two months after the bat- 
tle of Bunker Hill. A large quantity of am- 



BEEMUDA. 



munition was removed from a magazine at 
•St. George's, and conveyed across the govern- 
ment grounds, to make it appear that Gov- 
•ernor Bruere had participated in the act. 
l^o clew to the mystery has ever been found, 
though there is little doubt that the Ameri- 
cans used the ammunition. 

Slavery, introduced in the early colonial 
days, was abolished in 1834:, Bermuda being 
the first colony to advocate immediate rather 
"than gradual emancipation. The laws rec- 
ognized both Indian and negro slavery, and, 
"to a certain extent, also white slavery, since 
the child of a debtor could be sold at his 
:father's death, and held as bondsman iintil 
the debt was paid. There were never the 
large plantations as in the South, and the 
institution was undoubtely a milder form 
"than with us. The more intelligent learned 
irades or followed the sea, and many could 
l)oth read and write. 

Since 1685 Bermuda has been a crown col- 
ony. The Governor, the highest official in 
"the country, receives his appointment from 
the crown. His term of office is from five to 
seven years. From the fact that Bermuda 
occupies such an important place as a mili- 
"tary and naval station, being second only 
to Malta, it is deemed advisable to fill the 
■office with a man sufficiently conversant 
with military aff'airs to command any land 
-forces which may be stationed here. He ap- 
points many civil officers directly, while he 
3iominates others for positions filled by the 
■crown. He has the right of veto, and no 
"bill can pass the Assembly without his con- 
sent. He acts so largely on his own respon- 
jsibility. 

-At the office of our consul the American 



visiting this " little spot" will be cordially 
welcomed, and kindly furnished with all 
the information he may need regarding the 
country, and every efibrt will be made to 
render his stay pleasant. In many, perhaps 
all, respects he will find the hotels satisfac- 
tory. He can secure clean rooms, quite 
good attendance, and almost perfect quiet. 
The bill of fare is not, of course, equal to 
that of our metropolitan hotels, and one 
must incur the risk of being dissatisfied. 
There are, of course, amongst all classes of 
travelers, those to whom the privilege 
of grumbling is regarded as one of the lux- 
laries for which he expends his money, but 
it can be truly said that there is no reason 
hi nature why the table in Beimuda should 
not satisfy any reasonable person; if 
it does not, the fault must lie in the one 
who prepares the food, or the partaker of it, 
and they can easily settle ft between them- 
selves. 

Those who plume themselves on their cul- 
ture, and who regard all places except those 
in which they have resided as very benight- 
ed quarters, would, of course, look upon Ber- 
muda as almost outside the limits of civili- 
zation. Closer acquaintance would dispel 
many of these delusions. A stranger would 
be impressed at once with the marked cour- 
tesy of the people. From the lowest to the 
highest one will receive the most polite at- 
tention. A simplicity almost Arcadian char- 
acterizes their manners, especially those of 
the women. Many who have led very cir- 
cumscribed lives, who have never been away 
from Bermuda, possess an ease and grace 
which would do credit to habitves of society, 
arising appr-.rently from perfect faith in 




PITTS BAY, HKUMUDA. 



BERMUDA. 



others, and an earnest desire to add to their 
pleasure in every possible way. In matters 
of etiquette they are generally much more 
exact than Americans. The kindliness and 
formality aside — and they are not to be un- 
derrated — one would hardly derive much in- 
rspiration from the Bermudian, whose out- 
look is not a broad one. His life has not fos- 
iered extended views, and he is, perhaps, as 
little to be blamed for not possessing them 
:as for being born in mid-ocean. 

They are a comfortable, well-to-do set of 
people, with here and there a family pos- 
■essing ample means. As in England, prop- 
erty, especially leal estate, remains in the 
same family for a long period. There is very 
little real suffering from poverty, though 
there are many poor people, who had rather 
"be poor than make the necessary exertion to 
improve their condition. In this connection 
the colored people deserve some notice, 
forming, as they do, a large majority of the 
population. The importation of negroes 
from Africa ceased long before the abolition 
of slavery, which may account for the im- 
proved type of ijhysiognomy one encounters 
iere. The faces of some are fine, and many 
•of the women are really pretty. They are 
polite, about as well dressed as anybody, at- 
tend all the churches, and are members there- 
of, are more interested in schools than the 
poor whites, and a very large proportion of 
them can both read and write. They have 
their own secret and benevolent societies, 
and are just as improvident here as else- 
where. If they have any money, work is 
uninteresting to them. When utterly desti- 
tute they are ready to improve their finan- 
ces, but when pay-day comes they are quite 
.apt to retire from business and spend their 
earnings, running the risk of again finding 
•employment when compelled by necessity; 
and most of them live in this make-shift way 
all their lives. A strong feeling of prejudice 
•exists against them, which will probably die 
out when they have acquired a few of the 
sterling virtues at present monopolized by 
"white people. 

Life is not nearly as dull here as might be 
supposed. There are plenty of out-door 
amusements — driving, rowing, yachting, 
there being a fine club here; cricket and 
croquet, dinner-parties, balls, enliven the 
time, especially in winter. There are al- 
ways two regiments of troops stationed here, 
together with some marines, and all this 
gives a certain tone to society. The "men" 
are not much noticed, but officers are not 
neglected. In a great many cases their 
■clothes are the most interesting part of 
them, but still life is brighter and livelier 
with than it would be without them. 
Bermuda takes her place as a naval and 
military station, and gets all she can out 
of it. 



The Governor receives every Wednesday. 
On Saturday a croquet party is usually given 
at Mount Langton, his residence. The ladies 
are dressed in simple garden costume. Some 
play, while others sit and talk under the 
trees. The learned judge, the sedate parson, 
the doughty colonel, the jovial marine, all 
mingle here, and take a hand in the game. 
The conversation may, and may not, be in- 
different. You may hear the household gos- 
sip, or, if skillful, may listen to "bits of 
talk" about India during the rebellion, about 
China, the scenery of Jamaica, the gay life 
at Malta, or the dear old England. So the 
play and the talk go on until refreshments 
are announced, which are served in the pret- 
ty dining-room overlooking the sea. There 
may be music from some regimental band 
which will be very fair. These bands often 
play at their rooms, and it proves quite a 
pleasant entertainment. 

However interesting Bermuda may be to 
the pleasure-seeker it is even more so to the 
scientist, in proof of which statement I 
make the following extract from one of 
Colonel Nelson's valuable letters: "I have 
often regretted the want of a suitable oppor- 
tunity of impressing on the world of nat- 
uralists the expediency of occupying Ber- 
muda as a point with especial advantages for 
study in many branches of their craft. It 
is decidedly a hot climate in summer. One 
immense advantage to the naturalist in these 
islands is the characteristic tendency and 
necessity of coral formations to form well- 
sheltered lagoons. This, however, would be 
of small avail if there were sharks, but there 
is only one species there — the so-called blue 
shark, which rarely comes within the reefs 
unless tempted to do so in the whaling sea- 
son, and even then is never aggressive, 
though he will fight if attacked. Again, 
the water on its sandy bottom is so exqui- 
sitely transparent, exactly the color of the 
aqua-marine variety of beryl, that in a dead 
calm I have distinctly seen worm heaps, cor- 
allines, etc., at a depth of eleven fathoms, 
which I measured exactly. Again, the sum- 
mer temperature there admits of such pro- 
longed working in the water. My last good 
day's work was on November 5, 1832, when, as 
usual, I remained from three to four hours, 
swimming, wading, and creeping on all 
fours. " 

A superficial survey may be made of Ber- 
mude in a month. More critical observa- 
tions will require six months or a year. H« 
who has found in nature a friend or teacher 
will here have abundant cause for renewing 
his love, or opportunity for adding to his 
knowledge, and will bear away a memory of 
its beautiful scenes which will enrich a life- 
time. 

From Harper's Magazine. 



BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



TJ^I-^ia: -"^TT-XIllLaCiT^, - - - _ Proprietor.. 



HOUI^S FOR MEALS. 

Eaely Beeakfast, - ------ AT 6 o'clock. 

Breakfast, - - - 7 to 11 

Early Dinner, -_---___ ^^1 

Lunch, - - - -- - _ _ _ ^^i 

Dinner, ----._.-. 5 to 7 

Tea, _ . - . AT 6 

Supper, - - - - - - - - - 9 to 12 



i^iS0^-di,S^^ iK ^1,1, ti^ ^Pf^oijNf^M^X'i'^. 



Large, Well-Ventilated Rooms, 



SINGLE AND EN-SUITE. 



m'- 



EXCELLENT BEDS and PERFECT CLEANLINESS a Specialty. 



Electric Bells and Attendance on each floor. Elevator connects 
directly with the new ladies' entrance. TABLE and ATTENDANCE 
throughout, acknowledged as surpassed by none in the world; 

This favorably and well-known Hotel, recently renovated, is now 
unde r the same -imanagement as for years past, and has the personal 
attention and, supervision of the proprietor, with increased facilities for 
the comfort of its patrons, and accommodations for 500 guests. 



"GTTIOIT LIN"B" 

FOR LIVERPOOL 

Via QUKENSrO^WX, 
CARRYING THE UNITED STATES MAILS, 




Prom Pier (new) 38 ITorth River, ITew York, 
EZVBRY TUESDAY. 

WYOMING- - 3,716 Tons. 1 MONTANA - 4,320 Tons, 

NEVADA - - 3,125 " ARIZONA - - 4,500 " 

WISCONSIN, - 3,720 " 1 UTAH - - - 4,500 " 

J|@* These Steamers are built of Iron, in water-tight compartments, and are 
furnished with every requsite to make the passage across the Atlantic both safe 
and agreeable, having Bath-room, Smoking-room, Drawing-room, Piano and Library; 
also, experienced Surgeon, Stewardess and --Caterer on each Steamer. The Staie^ 
rooms are all on deck, thus insuring those greatest of all luxuries at sea, perfect 
ventilation and light. 

,, The L^ S. Mail Steamer '^CANIMA/' sailing from Bermuda, 
•Thursday, generally arrives at New York on Monday, and Pas- 
sengers^ Baggage can be transferred direct to tiie Liverpool 
Steamer sailing next day. 



RATES OF PASSAGE. 

STEERAGE - - - $26 00 I CABIN - - $55 to 80 OO 

INTERMEDIATE - - 40 00 1 (according to State-room.) 

OFFICES, NO. 29 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
WILLIAMS & GUION. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

015 816 377 9 




Having a contract with the BERMUDA GOVERNMENT for Steann 
Communication, will dispatch 




For BERMUDA from IVEW YORK, 

FORTNIGHTLY, EXCEPT DURING APRIL, MAY AND JUNE 
WHEN STEAMERS WILL SAIL WEEKLY. 

Aeconaodations for PasseBgers are commodious and handsome, and the- 

Steamers now on this route have been fitted expressly for this trade, 

and are equal in comfort and strength to any Oceaa 

Steftmer. The voyage is made in 

SEVENTY HOURS FROM PORT TO PORT, 

and thirty hours after 

leaTing New York the Gulf Stream is crossed, which 

in the coldest weather is an impassable barrier to frost ; thus quickly 

putting the traveler in the balmy atmosphere of a southern climate. 

FOE ALL INFGRMATID^T AND TICKETS APPLY TO 

A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., Agents, 

No. 29 BROADWAY^ NEW YORK. 

Gr- IjE"VE5 Passenger Argent. 



271 Broadway, 
240 Washington Street, 
202 St. James Street, 
Opposite St. Louis Hotel, 
TROTT & COX^ 



NEW YORK 

BOSTOR 

MONTREAL 

QUEBEG^ 

BERMUDA 



